Manufacture of boots and shoes



' March 30,1926. I 1,578,890

1 E. R. HAYDEN MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES Filed Oct. 9, 1924 31mm ntov Edwin 12 Hayden Patented Mar. 30, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EDWIN REYNOLDS HAYDEN, OF NORTH IRESTON, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-THIRD TO BENJAMIN THOMAS ROY CHADD AND ONE-THIRD TO WILLIAM HENRY JOHN BAILEY, BOTI'I OF IVANIIOE, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA.

' MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND'SHOES.

Application filed October 9, 1924.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWIN REYNOLDS HAYDEN, a subject of the King of Great Britain and Irelanchresiding in the post town of North Preston, a suburb of the city of Melbourne, in the county of Bourke, State of Victoria, Commonwealth of Australia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements Relating to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification. I

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and more particularly to that class of footwear generally referred to as pumps. 7

Pump soled shoes have the advantage of being more flexible and consequently more comfortable to wear than footwear generally known as Blake stitched shoes, the uppers of which are secured to an insole, after which an outer sole is stitched to the upper and insole.

According to existing methods a pump soled shoe requires especial care and high class skilled labor to produce. -The upper is turned inside out in which condition the sole is applied after which it is reversed to its normal condition. This operation involves considerable time and labor. also been found difiicult to produce pump shoes of regular shape and fit,

The present invention involves a. method of manufacturing boots and shoes whereby an article having all the advantages and flexibility of pump soled shoes may be produced but withoutthe necessity of reversing the upper to apply the sole and whereby the insole is entirely eliminated thereby saving time, labor and material and resulting in the production of a boot or shoe having all the beneficial characteristics of a pump soled shoe without its disadvantages and at a much reduced cost.

Furthermore by the method in accordance with the present invention it is possible to produce an article which will be more accurate in shape and. fit and to do so with practically unskilled labor.

The invention pr marily resides in the It has Serial No. 742,689.

production of a sole split at itsedges to thereby form a lip and recess which latter accommodates the lower edge of the upper and in securing the upper to the sole by first inserting said edge of the upper into the said recess and subsequently stitching through the'lower portion of the sole edge the upper and the aforesaid marginal lip, thereby forming a threeply joint which is stronger and more efficient than the ordinary pump sole joint and eliminates the disad vantages attendant on the manufacture of pump shoes.

Referring to the drawings which form part of this specification z- Figure 1 is a perspective view of a sole which has been split or cut at its edge near its inner or upper surface to form a lip which is turned up for use in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 2 is a cross section of a sole, after it has been cut or split as aforesaid but before the lip formed by the splitting operation has been turned up to receive the upper.

Figure 3 is a cross section of the sole, showing the marginal lip, produced by the split or cut, turned up to form a V shaped recess between the lip and the body of the sole as in Figure 1.

Figure 4 illustrates a stage in the manufacture of a shoe in accordance with the invention and shows the shoe upper with interior lining placed upon a last so that the edges of the upper and lining maybe entered into said V shaped recess and temporarily secured between the lip and the marginal portion of the sole body preparatory to the final stitching or sewing operation. Portions are broken away to show the upper and lining within the marginal recess of the sole at the forepart of the shoe and a reinforcing member or shank inserted at the rear part thereof. The heel which is subsequently attached to the shoe is indicated by the broken lines.

Figure 5 is a cross section taken in line AA of Figure 4.

Figure 6is an inverted plan of the shoe after removal from the last and shows the I upper and lining permanently attached by stitching to the solo at the :torepart of the shoe and the upper and lining attached to the sole and the reinforcing shank at the rear part of the shoe. A portion of the sole is shown in sections and portions are broken away for convenience in illustration.

Figure 7 is a cross section of the forepart of the shoe after it has been removed from the last and the upper and -sole permanently sewn together by stitches passing t'hroi'igh the body portion of the sole, the upper and its lining and the marginal lip of the solo in accordance with the invention.

Figure 8 is a cross section of the rear part of the shoe showing the upper secured between an internal reinforcing member or shank and the sole.

In carrying the invention into effect the edge of the sole 2 of the shoe is split or. cut inwardly adjacent its inner or upper surface as indicated at 3 in Figure 2 so as to form a thin integral lip t which is turned up around the outer face of the sole as in Figures land 3. This lip extends around the edge of the sole preferably from the waist to the toe as clearly shown in Figure 1, but may, if desired, be extended around the whole margin ot-sole including the heel portion thereof. Thesplitting of the sole and upturning oi the lip in the above manner creates a V-sectioned recess 6 (Figure 3) between the aforesaid lip t and the lower marginal portion 7 of the sole which portion 7 is preferably thicker than said lip 4. This recess is utilized to accommodate the lower edge of the upper as hereinafter described.

The undersurtacc of the sole may also be provided with the usual groove or channel 8 to accoin nodate the stitching'which unites the sole to the up )er.

To produce a shoe according to the presen invention the sole is damped in the usual in annerai ter which the upper ll, with a suitable interior lining 1 it required, is placed upon a last 13 (Fi ures i and 5) to which the split sole 2 has been temporarily attached by tacks or the like.

Tl'ie'edges l l'ot *t he upperll and lining overlap or overhang the bottom ot the last 13 for a sutlicient distance to enable said overhanging or overlapping edges let to be placed within the \''--shaped recess 6 between the lip i and the adjacent marginal portion 7 of the sole. The upper is then temporarily secured to the sole 2 preferably by a suitable adhesive solution or by othersui'table "means such asfta'cks or the like. The upper with the sole, thus temporarily attached is nowreino'ved from the last. Inthis conditioi'i the sole and the upper are sen i1 togetherby the usual shoe sewing machine the stitches 16 entering the sole through the stitch c nel '8 on its outer or bottom "surface thence pas ing through the-rip er 1 1. sad as usin and.

the aforesaid lip at of the sole and back again through these superimposed members so thatthe upper is securely attached between the lip i and the lower marginal portion 7 of the sole.

If desired the waist and the heel portion of the sole may be attached to the upper 11 and lining 12 in a similar manner to that described above but preferably a reinforcing member or shank 17 'a'sseen-i'n Figures it, 6 and 8 is introduced Within the waist and heel portion of the shoe and may be secured in the desired position to the upper and lining at the rear part of the shoe by tacks or the like 1511's indicated in Figure 6. The rear part of the sole 2 is subsequently attached to the upper and lining and the reinforcing shank 17 by nails or like fastening devices indicated at 18 in Figures 6 and 8, the upper and its lining being thus secured between the sole and the shank at the waist and heel part of the shoe.

Having now described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. A boot or shoe comprising a sole split inwardly along its edge to form a thin marginal lip extending around the forepart of the sole at its upper surface and terminating near the waist portion thereof, the waist and heel portions of the sole being leftintact, and an upper having the lower edge portion of its forward portion inturned within the recess thus formed between said lip and the lower marginal portion of the sole beneath said lip, said inturned portion of the upper being seci'i'redbet'ween said lip and lower marginal portion ofthe sole by means of stitches passing through the three superimposed members, and a reinforcing shank disposed within the upper aiidextending from a point adjacent the ends of said lip to the heel ofthe shoe, the waist and heel portions of the upper having its lower edge portion turned beneath the shank and secured between the shank and the. sole.

2. The inetllod'ot manufacturing a boot or shoe which consists in slit 'ng' the tore-part .ot the sole inwardly along its edge adjacent its upper surface to produce thin marginal lip extendii'ig around "the toe and foiepart of the sole and terminating adjacent the waist portion thereof, the waist and heel portions of the sol'efbei-i '3; left intact, subsequently lasting said sole and'the shoe upe1 with a reinforcing shank inserted "within the waist and heel portion of the upper and against the last, inti'irnin'g the lower edge portion of the upper within the recess formed between said marginal lip and the lower marginal portion of the sole, tempo ma securingsaid inturned portion the upper within recess. around the part of the sole and "similarly securing the 'ii' ais't' and reel part of the upper to said.

Within said recess by stitches passing the upper, and the shank.

shank between the shank and the sole; reof the upper, and permanently securing the moving theupper with the temporarily at- Waist and heel part of the upper between tached sole from the 121st, permanently sesaidshank and the upper face of the soleby curing said inturned portion of the upper nails or the like passing through the sole,

through said lip and lower marginal por- In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

tion of the sole and said inturned portion E. R. HAYDEN. 

